St Leger - Montceaux

This is the section where the canal du Centre’s surroundings change from a predominately wine growing region to one whose former wealth was largely based on industry. This is often apparent in the canal’s immediate scenery for much of this area does not appear to have recovered from the catastrophic company failures of the sixties and there is a gradual, but noticeable, change from the manicured banks and well maintained tow paths of the vineyard communes, to something rather more overgrown, with decidedly crumbling lock cottages. This is also the summit region, with 4 kms between the last lock that descends towards Chalon and the first which descends toward Digoin. The interest of this region is very different from the previous one and it does boast what, in our view, is the best port de plaisance on the entire canal.

You dont have to walk far to quench a thirst in St Bérain-sur-Dheune, for the Bar des Sports is almost in the water. The town’s cemetery has an interesting chapel, with pre- Romanesque aspe and gothic side chapels, which is an historic moto admire, including the premises of Menuiserie Magnier (right).

For those looking for a change of pastime, horses can be hired, at St Jean de Trézy, about 1 km from the canal.nument. There are, also, several nicely restored houses

Other diversions - swimming, wind surfing and jet ski-ing can be practiced on the lac de Montaubry (left), the largest of the reservoirs that feed the canal. If some of the crew are feeling energetic, you can drop them at Morey (right), which has the distinction of being the smallest commune on the canal. From there it is a pleasant walk to the lake and you can meet up again in the old turning basin

at StJulien-sur -Dheune (right), built to allow the péniches that served Perrusson’s tile works to turn round, and now converted into a very pleasant halte nautique.

For 100 years, Ecuisses (left) was a prosperous little town, thanks to the firms of Collesson (pipes) and Perrusson (toof tiles, bricks, ceramic tiles), who had factories alongside the canal. Both went out of business in the 1960s, but there are still plenty of examples of Perusson decorations, on the facades of houses and shops. Another relic of days gone by is the only remaining example of an original lock, with 3 tonne wooden gates that used to be operated by hand. Near this lock there is an interesting canal museum, housed in a péniche called Armançon and you can also visit an 18th century lock keeper’s house.

There is a plan afoot to restore all the lock keepers’ houses and put them to some useful purpose. Work is well in hand on the first project at écluse No. 1 Mediterranean, where treasures such as the original 18th century fireplace have been uncovered. That cottage is to be used as an information centre, but there are no plans, as yet, for a use for No. 1 Ocean (left).

English visitors to the canal will be pleased to learn that there is an English run boatyard near Montchanin, which

is proving popular with people who want to leave a boat on the canal, in a secure place, especially as there is a TGV service close by.

All along this section of the canal there are reminders that it was once a prosperous industrial area, thanks to the many ceramics firms attracted to the region for its riches; both clay and the coal needed to fire the kilns. Today, impressive, but tired, canal side houses and derelict kilns, overgrown with creepers are witnesses of that era. 

If you are interested in old machinery and memorabilia of a former way of life, a stop at Blanzy is a must, for it has a very good mining museum, where you get a guided tour of the old underground workings and see some unique equipment.

This is a cheerful little town, with an interesting church, a ancient bridge over the river Bourbince and shops and restaurants conveniently close to the attractive halte nautique.

Montceaux-les-Mines is an excellent place to stay a while. The port de plaisance is first rate and conveniently situated in the centre of the town.

This former mining town is now a welcoming and animated place, with delightful flower bedecked streets, colourful facades and terrific leisure facilities. Two leisure parks have been created in former open cast coal mining sites and give the town a superbly verdant environment. There is a nine hole golf course, a fitness area, facilities for many sports, a lake and much more. There are restaurants and cafés to suit all tastes and pockets, in the tree lined street behind the capitainerie, a market twice weekly and supermarkets in bike riding distance. This is definitely a place where any canal cruiser could pass a very pleasant few days and we were amazed that what has to be the best port de plaisance on the whole canal was almost empty.
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