La Sarthe

The river Sarthe is a rather secretive waterway. It has historic monuments and character towns in profusion but, unlike the nearby Mayenne, few of these dip their toes in its waters.

With a few exceptions, you need to step ashore to appreciate them and, in some cases, you’ll have to take a longish walk to see the best sights, or get the bicycles off the cabin roof!

One place that is well worth the effort of cycling to see is the 15th century chateau Plessis Bourré; the archetypal example of a fairytale, moated French chateau!

Some places of interest

Angers, with its enormous fortified chateau, its wood-framed houses, the David statues in the glass-roofed Abbaye Toussaint and the art-deco Maison Bleue, to name but a few of its sights, is not a place for a quick visit. The parks are superb, the patisseries tantalising and the pavement cafes vibrant; a place where you must be prepared to linger.

Briollay is a charming village, whose inhabitants appear to be all keen gardeners, for the houses - both quaint and gracious - have particularly colourful gardens making it a pleasant place to stroll in. A public common, close to the water, has picnic tables, barbecues and childrens’ play areas that are well shaded by mature weeping willows.

Cheffes is a place to spend a night, sipping a local wine as you watch the sun go down, with only the tumbling weir to pervade the silence. It is also the place to get down the bikes and set off, through the verdant countryside, for magnificent Plessis Bourré.

Chateauneuf-sur-Sarthe has an interesting waterway museum that tells the story of the life and work of the watermen, from the times of the sailing gabares to the present century.

Brissarthe has a surprise awaiting you for, inside its curiously styled church, you will find priceless art in humble surroundings.

Moranne is a good place for the hungry, whether you want an array of quiches and tarts to eat on the boat, or a no-frills, good value meal, from the bar/restaurant at the campsite.

Chemire, with its elegant chateau and ancient mairie, lacks amenities but makes up with picturesque surroundings. A good place to picnic on board, from the goodies you bought in Moranne.

Pincé is a sleepy village with inevitable chateau, large church, an excellent quay with childrens’ play area and little else. A good place for a peaceful overnight stay.

Sablé is a cheerful, bustling town, with a great chateau on the banks of the river. It is a good place to stock up at the supermarket, drink ice cold beer at a pavement café and, of course, sample the town’s famous biscuits.

Solesmes is famed for its abbey and you can moor below the mighty walls and walk up to the church and exhibition room, with its magnificent statues, brought here in the 15th Century. For music lovers, attending a service is a must, for the quality of the gregorien chant of Solesmes is revered throughout the world.

Juigné is a town of turreted houses, situated on a hill overlooking the river. It has magnificent views of Solesmes abbey.

Avoise has pleasant bankside moorings near the manor of La Perrine de Cry, a former convent once turned into a turkey farm & now magnifiently restored. Here the woods of chateau Dobert (photo) are open to the public & you can see an interesting machine to lift water for irrigation, designed by the original owner in 1752.

Asnières-sur-Vegre - a few kilometres from Avoise - the oldest village in this region and there are many architectural gems to see. Most notable are the frescos in the church, especially the surprisingly detailed representation of the inferno.

Parcé is a charming little town, with mediaeval houses that are typical of the region, clustered around its romanesque bell tower. Not far away is the delightful moulin d’Ignières, once owned by Marcel Pagnol and used as the setting for the film “La belle meunière”.

Dureil is a miniscule village, with an excellent auberge and several large properties nearby, including a classical chateau with the unusual name of Pêcheseul. You wont be surprised to learn that it was named for an owner whose favourite pastime was to go fishing alone!

Malicorne has several excellent restaurants, which make it a good place to stay overnight, before you spend some time browsing the shops selling hand painted china from its potteries, which specialise in reproductions of ancient designs. The 12th century chateau was rebuilt in the 18th century and became a cultural meeting place.